R-Spec Retaliator Production Notes.

With the upcomming Stage 2 kits and other sealed breach blaster kits (maybe your own) coming out.  This Mod formula might be useful to get the most out of it.  What you have to understand is that blasters like the Longshot have larger Plunger Tubes.  This means if it is airtight, it will have more resistance because the o ring has more surface area to slow down the piston and go slower.  The upshot, of course is that a larger diameter piston moves more air, exponentially more air.

With a Retaliator, you do not have that luxury, the diameter is small and you have to make the most of it.  In Retaliator terms roughly

10Kg's Longshot = 16Kg's Retaliator with the same mods.

Or, given a stock bolt assembily...

(More air, Less pressure/Time"a" = Force "a") = (Less air, More pressure/Time"a"= Force "a")

Or in a sealed breach system...

More air, Less pressure/Longer barrel  = Force "a" = Less Air, More pressure/Shorter barrel

Now I have never made a 16 Kg Retaliator, so mine more like...

10Kg Longshot = 14Kg Retaliator, why?

In a couple of words, if your into that whole brievety thing, craftsmanship and details. If not, that piston needs to be airtight yet not so much it is pushing on the plunger tube.  But because smaller o ring means smaller drag footprint, this is possible and this is the concept of the R-Spec Lineup.   These blasters work on the concept of less piston volume but more force.  The downside is a harder cocking effort, the upside, small blasters that make people fucking run away and a fun challenge.

So here are the production notes as I wrote in Facebook to a friend that wanted to know how to build one.

1. *Stage 2 OMW kit has a plunger, I haven't used it or tested it but it can probably take as much stress as an Xplorer replacemet piston which I use.
   
   * Take the stage 1 trigger catch, file both sides down 1/2 a mm, but not the inside that touches the trigger.
   
   * Use a OMW trigger catch spring on the trigger catch spring and a metal trigger catch from ...OMW.
   
   *Make sure you have an airtight plunger by wrapping the plunger 2-3 times with Teflon tape, 8-10 if using explorer piston and use lithium grease, it might take a number of firings to break it in, but it is worth it. The goal is airtight but free flowing with little resistance.
   
   * Wrap the o-ring 3 times under and then 3 times over on the bolt, this does 2 things, airtight bolt assembly and keeps the o-ring from popping off in battle.
   
   *If ever found loose, remove the o ring on the piston and put 2 more windings of Teflon tape over it and replace the o ring with some new lithium grease.
   
   *Take out the mid prime lock on the bolt sled OR ELSE and put a OMW trigger catch spring on the trigger lock cam. If you don't want a trigger lock, break off the finger on the trigger going to it.
   
   * Use an XTM racing 107x1.7 mm spring, yellow is easier, recommended, but if you get black and trim off 1 coil, you have 14 Kg's but it's a little hard to break in.. File the I.D. of the retaliator on both sides to fit the spring. I believe it is 11/16ths, but I could be wrong.
   
   * If you Chaff the composite piston catchface, and you will, take a fine flat file (I bought mine at sears) and file it at the face where the trigger catch meets. You will do this quite a bit but it repairs a catch nicely.  This trick does not work with ABS and proves why a $20 Xplorer Plunger is worth the dough.
   
   * The blaster tends to dive with a normal Nerf Retaliator bolt, but aimed flat as the dart flies 90-100 is average peaking around 110-115, but you gotta play with it a bit to get there. It is intended without a barrel attachment.

   
   

   Difficulty: 9.2 out of 10, can you tell me why?  Comments, comments....

   
   

   
   

   
   

   --Cartaya