It's different than you would get from Xplorer, Let me Xplain ;)
Ok so, buy a complete blaster form Xplorer, Buy the Xdarts, make them and you will notice, It really is it's own system made from an independent mindset. It's not borrowed from Captian Slug or Boltsniper, For one, it is based on the Philosophy of low friction, in the barrel AND the plunger tube, some love it, some hate it. If you open it up, first thing you will notice is that the o-ring hardly contacts the Plunger tube, it is one o ring and they use a red grease that is o ring friendly on the inside. This does work actually, it's just that it's not very universal, what if you like tighter foam, tighter barrels, harder springs.....
I do not advise making #6 slugs to work in here, even at 35mm or my length I make my X-darts @ 1 7/16ths, stick with the Xplorer darts, the ACC darts are completely wrong weightwise and I can't vouch for domed FvJ's, they look decent, but remember you still have to trim them down, which is a ton of work anyways. I still use Xplorer heads and foam, simply because I want control of my darts, not some guy not watching the glue or the chance of having a bad day with an Xacto Knife.
Next, the breechfinger, small hole maybe 1/3rd of an inch, made to propel the dart, provide the PT with backpressure at the same time and make it safe(r) to dry fire. The next is the breech itself, it is an interlocking breech, kind of works like a wedge rather than 2 interlocking tubes. The rate of fire...is awesome, I have cleared 15 rounds in 10 seconds.
I feel people who don't own an Xplorer blaster just don't understand why it can't be full length darts, one feeding, two it's because the breech and magazines are set up for Stefan length and can't be changed and 3, the flight of the darts would just fishtail too much.
Disclaimer:
Anything I say here will void any warrantee you have, so don't bitch at them if it goes wrong. A lot of this stuff Dninja Heng would never do has said so on video's and to people in person and online. His system works, pretty damn great, so unless you just are a hot rod like me and "really" want to experiment on your own and willing to drop another $60 on a boltsled, $40 for a breech or replace the longshot shell if you mess up, don't, it's on you pal! Mod at your own risk.
Do remember that it take power to make power and that the springs you use should be balanced sets with flat ends not clumsy, wrongly fit springs that don't coil together well or have too much spring bias to make it so that the plunger rod catch hits the trigger catch every time.
Ok first off....
Springs.
Xplorer makes a decent 14 Kg spring, however 14 Kg's is not the best spring to use for dual springs. Think about it, add a century C-882 spring in there as a center spring with 14 coils, that's 25 Kg's. great if you have he man arms, not great if you want to go shotgun grips and have higher RoF.
The first 18Kg springs were short, on my spirit blaster actually only 4" I put an extender on mine and a stock Longshot spring on the outside, helped quite a bit, but that's still not as nice as it could be.
Personally I like the idea of 2, weaker but fast action longshot springs, different Diameters (7/8" and 1.125") and combine them. The Century Spring Company C-882 is an 8" 22 coil, 1.8mm gauge spring. It has 2 closed ends, you have to cut some coils to make it fit (6 of them) and close the cut coil, if not grind them flat, it's worth it, because now you have a nice 5.75" spring that will match that OMW 8Kg Longshot spring that is 5.5" long. Lots of slap, tons of air compression at the end, make the best use of that 100cc's of air I say so it don't slow down the dart at the end.
Keep the plunger padding, but make sure the PH is not hitting the tube and round the PH head with a file, not much, a few fractions of an inch, but enough that it's not square. Put in both springs, tighten the PH all the way to the Plunger rod and blammo! Nice power!
If you are out thrifting and you find a Thunderbow, take out that spring, it's 11 Kg's and fits in a Longshot, that will work too as a center spring.
Seals are dual o rings, one smaller than the other, never contacts the PT the other one contacts in the last 2 inches and has a trimmed Ziploc bag over the plunger... I use Normal lithium grease but if you want to use White Lithium grease, knock yourself out.
Boltsled.
I don't recommend a stock longshot boltsled, If you want only 14Kg's an xplorer composite sled like what comes with the Trooper kit will work, some use the OMW boltsled, but then it's not quite an Xplorer anymore. Roboman makes a machined aluminum boltsled for $100, but honestly if you know what you are doing, the Eco Hybred sled Xplorer makes for $60 will work just fine within 26 Kg's, given a few perks....
The Hybred Boltsleds made by Xplorer depend on one thing, the Breechfinger pin. As long as that holds together, so will your sled, as soon as playing, vibration or wear and tear breaks it loose, the composite pieces in the center will snap. My solution you ask? A 4-40 grade 5 stainless 1.5" screw and a 4-40 nut that is threadlocked with a #6 washer on the other end but not tight. Result...never breaks.....
Breech.
If you have a fighter kit, glue that sucker on there good because if it comes off, you're in trouble. If you break that breechfinger, goodbye feeding. You want the breech to clear the magazine while priming, however, not so far that it doesn't seat the dart at full back draw. Too far forward and the dart won't go up into the breechfinger and jam. On a trooper breech it is usually pinned, I chose to tap, screw, seal and glue it with a 6/32 stainless steel screw and the file it smooth on the other end.
To make up for the screw going though the breech I enlarged the breech hole to 9.5mm's
The breech was made airtight 100% by moving the breechfinger forward 1.5mm and by adding go2 glue to the breech and wax in the breechgate, molding in seals.
The plunger padding was actually put on the middle of the trooper breech and a piece of .5"od .430 ID of 6061 aluminum was put in all the way to the Breechfinger. This shortens up dead space and gives the breechfinger another surface to push off of. It had a marginal impact on Velocity (3-8 FPS gain) but the solid feel was more what I was after, 2 interlocking pieces of aluminum.
Stock. and accessories
Nothing fancy, the stock is held in with a stronger stock release button spring and a tube of aluminum. It has a neon Green Xtrigger and quick release finger as well as a black Xplorer shotgun grip with the Xplorer X ainted Gold and 13 coats of hand sanded gloss to seal it. Also My X mags are painted with gold lettering.
Barrel:
I have 2 barrels and 2 Gates. One is a 11" Aluminum Xplorer barrel, one is a glued 12" 17/32nds brass barrel glued into the breech with the barrel adapter glued and sealed with Go2 glue so the barrel doesn't flop around.
--Cartaya
Ok so, buy a complete blaster form Xplorer, Buy the Xdarts, make them and you will notice, It really is it's own system made from an independent mindset. It's not borrowed from Captian Slug or Boltsniper, For one, it is based on the Philosophy of low friction, in the barrel AND the plunger tube, some love it, some hate it. If you open it up, first thing you will notice is that the o-ring hardly contacts the Plunger tube, it is one o ring and they use a red grease that is o ring friendly on the inside. This does work actually, it's just that it's not very universal, what if you like tighter foam, tighter barrels, harder springs.....
I do not advise making #6 slugs to work in here, even at 35mm or my length I make my X-darts @ 1 7/16ths, stick with the Xplorer darts, the ACC darts are completely wrong weightwise and I can't vouch for domed FvJ's, they look decent, but remember you still have to trim them down, which is a ton of work anyways. I still use Xplorer heads and foam, simply because I want control of my darts, not some guy not watching the glue or the chance of having a bad day with an Xacto Knife.
Next, the breechfinger, small hole maybe 1/3rd of an inch, made to propel the dart, provide the PT with backpressure at the same time and make it safe(r) to dry fire. The next is the breech itself, it is an interlocking breech, kind of works like a wedge rather than 2 interlocking tubes. The rate of fire...is awesome, I have cleared 15 rounds in 10 seconds.
I feel people who don't own an Xplorer blaster just don't understand why it can't be full length darts, one feeding, two it's because the breech and magazines are set up for Stefan length and can't be changed and 3, the flight of the darts would just fishtail too much.
Disclaimer:
Anything I say here will void any warrantee you have, so don't bitch at them if it goes wrong. A lot of this stuff Dninja Heng would never do has said so on video's and to people in person and online. His system works, pretty damn great, so unless you just are a hot rod like me and "really" want to experiment on your own and willing to drop another $60 on a boltsled, $40 for a breech or replace the longshot shell if you mess up, don't, it's on you pal! Mod at your own risk.
Do remember that it take power to make power and that the springs you use should be balanced sets with flat ends not clumsy, wrongly fit springs that don't coil together well or have too much spring bias to make it so that the plunger rod catch hits the trigger catch every time.
Ok first off....
Springs.
Xplorer makes a decent 14 Kg spring, however 14 Kg's is not the best spring to use for dual springs. Think about it, add a century C-882 spring in there as a center spring with 14 coils, that's 25 Kg's. great if you have he man arms, not great if you want to go shotgun grips and have higher RoF.
The first 18Kg springs were short, on my spirit blaster actually only 4" I put an extender on mine and a stock Longshot spring on the outside, helped quite a bit, but that's still not as nice as it could be.
Personally I like the idea of 2, weaker but fast action longshot springs, different Diameters (7/8" and 1.125") and combine them. The Century Spring Company C-882 is an 8" 22 coil, 1.8mm gauge spring. It has 2 closed ends, you have to cut some coils to make it fit (6 of them) and close the cut coil, if not grind them flat, it's worth it, because now you have a nice 5.75" spring that will match that OMW 8Kg Longshot spring that is 5.5" long. Lots of slap, tons of air compression at the end, make the best use of that 100cc's of air I say so it don't slow down the dart at the end.
Keep the plunger padding, but make sure the PH is not hitting the tube and round the PH head with a file, not much, a few fractions of an inch, but enough that it's not square. Put in both springs, tighten the PH all the way to the Plunger rod and blammo! Nice power!
If you are out thrifting and you find a Thunderbow, take out that spring, it's 11 Kg's and fits in a Longshot, that will work too as a center spring.
Seals are dual o rings, one smaller than the other, never contacts the PT the other one contacts in the last 2 inches and has a trimmed Ziploc bag over the plunger... I use Normal lithium grease but if you want to use White Lithium grease, knock yourself out.
Boltsled.
I don't recommend a stock longshot boltsled, If you want only 14Kg's an xplorer composite sled like what comes with the Trooper kit will work, some use the OMW boltsled, but then it's not quite an Xplorer anymore. Roboman makes a machined aluminum boltsled for $100, but honestly if you know what you are doing, the Eco Hybred sled Xplorer makes for $60 will work just fine within 26 Kg's, given a few perks....
The Hybred Boltsleds made by Xplorer depend on one thing, the Breechfinger pin. As long as that holds together, so will your sled, as soon as playing, vibration or wear and tear breaks it loose, the composite pieces in the center will snap. My solution you ask? A 4-40 grade 5 stainless 1.5" screw and a 4-40 nut that is threadlocked with a #6 washer on the other end but not tight. Result...never breaks.....
Breech.
If you have a fighter kit, glue that sucker on there good because if it comes off, you're in trouble. If you break that breechfinger, goodbye feeding. You want the breech to clear the magazine while priming, however, not so far that it doesn't seat the dart at full back draw. Too far forward and the dart won't go up into the breechfinger and jam. On a trooper breech it is usually pinned, I chose to tap, screw, seal and glue it with a 6/32 stainless steel screw and the file it smooth on the other end.
To make up for the screw going though the breech I enlarged the breech hole to 9.5mm's
The breech was made airtight 100% by moving the breechfinger forward 1.5mm and by adding go2 glue to the breech and wax in the breechgate, molding in seals.
The plunger padding was actually put on the middle of the trooper breech and a piece of .5"od .430 ID of 6061 aluminum was put in all the way to the Breechfinger. This shortens up dead space and gives the breechfinger another surface to push off of. It had a marginal impact on Velocity (3-8 FPS gain) but the solid feel was more what I was after, 2 interlocking pieces of aluminum.
Stock. and accessories
Nothing fancy, the stock is held in with a stronger stock release button spring and a tube of aluminum. It has a neon Green Xtrigger and quick release finger as well as a black Xplorer shotgun grip with the Xplorer X ainted Gold and 13 coats of hand sanded gloss to seal it. Also My X mags are painted with gold lettering.
Barrel:
I have 2 barrels and 2 Gates. One is a 11" Aluminum Xplorer barrel, one is a glued 12" 17/32nds brass barrel glued into the breech with the barrel adapter glued and sealed with Go2 glue so the barrel doesn't flop around.
--Cartaya
